Providence is known for its Italian mob-boss mayor Buddy Cianci, the Big Blue Bug off of I-95 and being a little eccentric. Providence is not known for its Asian food. There are, of course, exceptions. I recently ventured down College Hill to Providence Noodle Bar on Mathewson Street. Founded by two Johnson and Wales University alumni, this noodle spot does not lay claim to a particular Asian cuisine; however, after examining their menu full of ponzu, soba, dashi and karaage, I noted a distinct Japanese influence.
We started with the Ika Ponzu Salad ($7): a tornado of spring greens, rings of tender squid, edamame, cherry tomatoes, red onions both fresh and pickled and fried shallots. The salad was dressed in ponzu, a soy-vinegar sauce, and yuzu kosho, a fermented Japanese pepper paste. The squid was especially exciting: perfectly cooked and not chewy. I’m never mad about a pickled onion, but sometimes I’m disappointed by a raw one. Here, the latter was true. The fresh onions were cut quite thickly and yanked the spotlight away from more interesting flavors.
The Agedashi Tofu ($6), a Japanese dish of lightly fried tofu placed in an adorable puddle of dashi broth, was similarly affordable. The dish boasted two large cubes of tofu dredged in starch and fried. The most unexpected and delightful part of the dish happened to be the little piles of grated daikon atop each tofu block. Daikon, a white Japanese radish, has no distinct flavor making it especially good at soaking up broth. I found its curiously round sweetness hard not to enjoy. Red onions — both pickled and raw — made a second appearance on this plate and, after a while, overwhelmed the dashi. The tofu coating, once crisp, also became increasingly soggy.
We ordered the Chashu Pork Side ($9) next and requested a bit of the spicy mayo to go with it. The pork came thinly sliced, tender, smokey and very lightly sweetened with a marinade. Eaten dipped in the mayo, which was speckled with roe and black sesame seeds and spiked with lemon, it was exceptional.
My mother says that the real mark of a restaurant is the quality of their vegetarian dishes. The vegetarian Sesame Scallion noodles ($14) did a good job convincing me that Providence Noodle Bar isn’t messing around. The noodles arrived in a large bowl with four small sides: blanched bean sprouts, yu choy, nori and a spicy chili paste. The broth was perfumed with sesame oil, but the noodles felt like an afterthought, being a minute overdone and not as chewy as I would have liked. The real cause for discussion at our table, however, was the fried king oyster mushrooms. I’ve never had anything quite like them. The nuggets were seasoned all the way through and hugged by a light tempura batter. They were hot, crispy and the opposite of a sad excuse for a meat replacement. There were — still — too many onions, but this time only of the pickled variety.
For dessert, we ordered the black sesame ice cream ($3.75), although they also offer a matcha variety. The ice cream, tinted gray with bits of sesame seed, came in a glass dish with two little spoons and whipped cream, the kind that comes from a can. It was a touch grainy and the black sesame flavor — something close to peanut butter — was hardly detectable. Still, for only three dollars we were given a generous serving, more than enough for two people. There were, thankfully, no onions.
Providence Noodle Bar describes itself as serving “Asian noodle dishes” even while the menu demonstrates a considerable knowledge of Japanese cuisine. This points, perhaps, to something else — a restaurant that advertises itself in general terms is catering to a broader audience. Rather than reflecting a lack of understanding by the chefs, this choice recognizes that many may not know the complexities of Asian cuisine. The absence of a label also allows for more culinary freedom to create innovative dishes, like their Miso Caesar Salad ($7).
Labels aside, it’s clear that the chefs at Providence Noodle Bar are most concerned with cooking food people want to eat. Who cares what you call it as long as it tastes good? Providence might still live in the shadow of its big sister Boston when it comes to Asian food, but there are still some pretty tasty — and more affordable — bites to be found.
Service: friendly
Sound level: conversational
Recommended dishes: Chashu Pork Side, Sesame Scallion Noodles
Hours: Monday 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; 5 p.m.-11 p.m., Thursday-Sunday 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; 5 p.m.-12 a.m.
Price Range: Appetizers/Salads $6-8. Entrees $12-21. Dessert $3.75
Wheelchair accessibility: Accessible entrance, bathroom is small but has accessible handle bars.
★★★/5.
Eleanor Barth Wu ’26 can be reached at eleanor_barth_wu@brown.edu. Please send responses to this column to letters@browndailyherald.com and other opinions to opinions@browndailyherald.com.
