From a top shelf behind the display cases, the faces of several painted teacups wink down on Pastiche, a casually elegant dessert shop tucked behind the inviting, if touristy, Italian plaza on Federal Hill. The cups are a quirky indicator of what is to come — a delicious blend of whimsy and tradition with just a dash of trendy cafe fare.
The shop offers both carry-out and eat-in options, though the line can get long on weekend nights. The 40-seat dining area — backed by a large painting of hills and bays — is bathed in soft golds and greens by orange Depression-era glass lights. The atmosphere is completed by the waiters, whose service is speedy and professional, but who could smile a little more. Charmingly, despite Pastiche's popularity, the staff maintains a neighborhood feel, recognizing regular patrons and working in sync behind the counter.
The cafe's harmony transfers to the plate. An order of fresh lime mousse tart fetches several inches of tangy citrus foam balanced atop a thin, buttery pastry shell. Accompanied by a swirl of raspberry jam and twin slivers of candied lime, the slice feels like air: light enough for you to clean the plate without feeling guilty.
The tart finds its perfect counterpoint in the chocolate walnut brownie. A decadent layer of smooth chocolate covers a brownie base the consistency of fudge with a flower of chocolate sauce underneath. It is chock-full of walnuts but remains moist, dense though, surprisingly, never too rich.
Chocolate-dipped almond biscotti are similarly successful with their combination of nutty and bittersweet. The treat is elevated by the chocolate's high quality, but softening it with a dip in a steaming mug of fair-trade coffee — well-brewed but not too strong — takes the biscotti to another level.
Unfortunately, measured against the standard that such desserts set, not every bite hits it out of the park. A pumpkin praline muffin seems like the embodiment of autumn, and its crispy candied top showcases the pralines well. But it lives up to only half of its name: The pumpkin is curiously muted. A less timid hand in the kitchen would help, since ramping up the cinnamon and other spices might bring out the flavor better. As would a brief stop at the microwave — the muffin arrives at the table lukewarm.
Similarly underwhelming is the lemon square, bite-size but a bargain at 70 cents each. The dessert is extremely smooth and, thanks to a healthy dusting of powdered sugar, satisfies any sweet tooth. But the lemon curd lacks tang, allowing the sugar to overpower the star ingredient.
Yet it's easy to forget such disappointments in the comfort of the cafe, where every part of the eating experience is designed to satisfy and soothe. At one point during the meal, the soft jazz soundtrack playing in the background gave way to a woman crooning a Billy Joel cover. The song is emblematic of Pastiche's dual charm. With a nod to Italian tradition and a contemporary tweak, this dessert shop impresses all around.
