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Via Via IV

Via Via IV820 Waterman St.Providence831.8668

In spite of the allure of pizza shops on Federal Hill - or at least those with legal business models -Via Via IV tops this category because it's the correct answer to a simple question: "Which place serves the best pizza?" Though it might seem boring, the truth remains: If it's the best pizza that you are after, look no further than Via Via.

Let us begin with the pizza itself. Via Via uses flavorful, high-quality standard ingredients to make its pies. For example, its regular tomato sauce is definitely above average - sweet and not overloaded with spices (a cheap trick that some places use to make their pizzas seem high-class). The pizza crust is of good temperament, sagging only under the weight of bountiful toppings. All pizzas are cooked in a brick oven, a technique that puts the "crust" back in "crust." Sauce and cheese are in good proportion - a feature that famed Caserta's Pizzeria on Federal Hill fails to deliver - and if you find the grease levels a bit high, that can be easily remedied with a quick dab. And to give a plain pizza a classy touch, Via Via often sprinkles fresh basil on its pies, something that few, if any, other places around here do voluntarily.

But it is in its production of specialty pizzas that Via Via IV really whacks the competition. They have a variety of tasty, modern toppings like barbecue chicken and salmon that is second only to Antonio's, but the quality comparison gives the win to Via Via. Try the lasagna pie: a plain pizza base that is loaded with splotches of red sauce, ricotta cheese and sweet meat. Antonio's can't even come close. Gourmet ingredients abound on the menu, and though the specialty pizzas are generally expensive (about $16 for a large), get some friends together and stuff your hungry faces. Whole pies are generally of superior quality to single slices.

Admittedly, Via Via's dank atmosphere is not ideal, nor is the service. But at least it's unique, right? However, this concern is partially mitigated by the fact that Via Via is the only pizza shop on College Hill that's open past 2:00 a.m. on weekends.

Other pizza joints might give Via Via a run for the money in one aspect or another, but for the best of the best, let your taste buds call the shots and spend your green on a Via Via IV pie.

Honorable mentions:Deep dish: Sicilia's Sicilian: Caserta'sThin crust: Al Forno


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